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Backfill · 2022

#175 of 357

New Balance 550 Retro Court

seq 5
ObserverComparison/connoisseurshipfashionpositive
craft makingsocial belonging
NoticingExploreAchievement3/9
New BalanceAimé Leon DoreNew Balance
ImagePersonal photo

Personal photo: a pair of white New Balance 550 sneakers with green accents, lightly worn with visible creasing on the leather, on a concrete surface next to a canvas tote bag.

212 words

The New Balance 550 is a basketball shoe from 1989 that was discontinued and then reissued in 2020. The reissue became one of the most popular sneakers in fashion because the chunky silhouette and leather construction hit the exact retro aesthetic that street style was gravitating toward. Originally a mid-tier basketball performance shoe, not a fashion item, it made the transition to style piece when Aimé Leon Dore. A New York brand, collaborated with New Balance on a limited run that placed the 550 in a fashion context rather than a sports 1. Leather is tumbled and soft, the sole is a flat rubber cup that provides almost no cushioning by modern standards. Fit is roomy in a way that current athletic shoes are not. Colorways range from the original white with green or blue accents to seasonal variations that sell out within hours of release. New Balance occupies an interesting position in sneaker culture because the brand has always prioritized function and manufacturing quality over hype marketing. Success of the 550 represents a shift in consumer taste toward understated heritage shoes and away from the maximalist designs that dominated the 2010s. I bought a pair in white and green for $110 and I wear them almost daily because the leather ages well. Picking up creases and a slight patina that makes them look better with wear rather than worse. Made-in-the-USA program for their premium models doesn't include the 550, which is manufactured in Asia. The quality at $110 is still noticeably above comparably priced shoes from Nike and Adidas. After two months the leather has developed creases along the toebox that a synthetic shoe would never show, and that aging is exactly what I wanted.