Backfill · 2025
#113 of 383Tenugui Japanese Cloth
Press shot: several tenugui cloths with different patterns (wave, geometric, cherry blossom) laid overlapping on a wooden surface, showing the soft dye edges, unhemmed raw ends, and the thin cotton texture.
Tenugui is a thin cotton cloth about 13 by 35 inches that has been used in Japan since the Heian period. Roughly the 800s, for everything from drying hands to wrapping gifts to wearing as a headband during festivals. The cloth is printed with patterns using a paste-resist dyeing technique called chusen, where dye is poured through the fabric rather than pressed onto it. The result is a print that's identical on both sides with soft edges that give the design a watercolor quality. The fabric is intentionally left unhemmed on the short ends. Raw edges fray slightly with washing in a way that softens the cloth over time rather than making it look worn out. Tenugui patterns range from traditional motifs like waves, cherry blossoms, and geometric asanoha to contemporary designs featuring foods, animals. Pop culture references, and collecting them has become a hobby in Japan with specialty shops carrying hundreds of patterns. The cloth is thin enough to dry quickly and light enough to fold into a pocket. I use mine as a handkerchief, a placemat, a book cover, and a wrapping cloth depending on the day. Versatility is the point, because the tenugui was designed in a culture that values objects with multiple uses over specialized tools. Simplicity is what makes it adaptable. Chusen dyeing is done by hand in workshops that are increasingly rare. The best tenugui come from Sakai, near Osaka, where the craft has been practiced for over 100 years. A good tenugui costs between $8 and $20 depending on the complexity of the pattern, and the fabric softens and becomes more absorbent with each wash. I think the tenugui teaches you how to see design differently. Its value comes entirely from the interaction between a simple material, a specific size, and the imagination of the person using it. Kamawanu, a Tokyo-based maker founded in 1987, produces some of the most widely available tenugui and their catalog includes over 300 patterns that rotate seasonally. The cloth also functions as a lightweight travel towel and a lens cleaner. I've started giving them as gifts because they are affordable, useful, and specific enough to communicate that I thought about what to give.