Backfill · 2024
#326 of 363Natural Wine Bar Menu
Press shot: a sheet of brown butcher paper pinned to a wall, showing a handwritten wine list organized by region with prices, next to a wooden bar counter with two glasses of orange wine.
The natural wine bar downtown prints its menu on a single sheet of butcher paper and changes it every week. Regulars have to actually read it instead of just ordering the same thing. Wines are listed by grape and region rather than by name. Unless you already know what Trousseau from Jura tastes like, you're going to have to ask the bartender. Forced conversation is the design. Staff become guides rather than order-takers. Regulars build a relationship with the bar through those interactions. Prices are reasonable for natural wine, $14-$18 a glass, but the bottles are where the value is. They carry small-production wines you can't find at a liquor store. The bar appeals to me, though the whole natural wine scene has a gatekeeping quality where knowledge of obscure producers becomes social currency. The paper menu is part of that because it rewards people who already know what they're looking at. Whether that's good design or just exclusivity dressed up as simplicity depends on how welcoming the staff are. At this place, they're good about it.