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Backfill · 2024

#308 of 363

Pleated Wool Trousers

seq 9
ObserverNew product/launchfashionpositive
form elegance
Basic NeedsNoticingFeeling HopefulSomething Bigger4/9
ImagePersonal photo

Personal photo: a pair of charcoal wool pleated trousers draped over the arm of a mid-century chair, soft natural light from a nearby window.

233 words

I bought a pair of pleated wool trousers from a vintage shop and they're the most comfortable pants I own. That surprised me because everything about them looked formal on the hanger. The wool is lightweight, some kind of tropical weight weave that breathes better than cotton chinos in a heated lecture hall. Pleats give you room to move without the pants pulling tight across your thighs when you sit down. Based on the label style and the rise height, they were made in the late 1990s. The rise sits at the natural waist instead of below the hip like everything sold in stores right now. I had them hemmed for $12 because the original owner was about 3 inches taller than me. The tailor said the fabric quality was better than most new suiting she works with. Color is charcoal with a faint pinstripe you can only see up close. I've worn them with sneakers, with loafers, and with boots. All 3 combinations worked. The current trend toward wider-leg, higher-rise pants is actually a correction back toward proportions that were standard for decades before the slim-fit era made everyone's legs look like they were wrapped in tubes. A 25-year-old pair of trousers fitting better than anything at the mall says a lot about what we lost when the industry optimized for skinny cuts. These pants feel like a form that already figured out what it needed to be. The rest of the market is catching up. I wear them at least twice a week.