Backfill · 2023
#417 of 420Kiehl's Since 1851 Skincare
Personal photo: An old apothecary storefront with hand-lettered signage, shelves of white-labeled skincare products in simple packaging, and vintage glass display cases.
Kiehl's has occupied the same corner pharmacy in the East Village since 1851. Apothecary shelving, skeleton displays, and hand-lettered signage still fill the original store, all predating the brand's acquisition by L'Oréal in 2000. Generous free samples of any product go out to every customer, a policy dating back to the pharmacy era when letting customers try before buying was standard practice. Across hundreds of locations worldwide, that sampling approach has become central to the brand's identity. Ultra Facial Cream is the anchor product, a simple moisturizer using squalane and glacial glycoprotein to hydrate without leaving a greasy residue, and the formula has remained mostly unchanged for decades. Packaging is plain white with black serif text and minimal decoration, which reads as clinical rather than luxurious. Against heavily branded competitors, Kiehl's feels more trustworthy even though it is owned by the same conglomerate that owns Lancôme and Maybelline. Staff in the original store wear white lab coats and are trained to recommend products based on skin type rather than pushing the most expensive option, and that consultative approach builds trust that advertising cannot. Going in for a moisturizer I left with a sample kit of 5 products and a recommendation to try the Midnight Recovery Concentrate, which was not the most expensive thing they could have sold me. Amber bottles on the shelves, heritage signage, the history of the space itself — all of it creates an environment where spending $30 on a small jar of cream feels reasonable because you are buying from a place that has been earning trust for 170 years. Whether the products are objectively better than drugstore alternatives at a third of the price is debatable, but the experience of buying them is not replicated anywhere else I shop.