Backfill · 2023
#392 of 420Eataly Food Hall
Screenshot: An interior shot of a large food hall with exposed brick, hanging cured meats, a glass-walled pasta-making station, and customers browsing open market displays.
Eataly in New York works because it blurs the line between grocery store, restaurant, and cooking school , and it makes you spend more time and money than you planned. The ground floor is an open market with cheese counters, pasta stations, a butcher, a bakery. A wine shop, all arranged so you walk past them on the way to restaurant seating in the back. Fresh pasta is made in glass-walled rooms where you can watch the process. Price per pound runs about 3 times what you'd pay for dried pasta at a regular grocery store. The premium is for the theater of watching someone make it, and the quality difference is real. I bought a bag of fresh pappardelle and it cooked in 3 minutes instead of 12. The texture was completely different from boxed pasta. Eataly positions itself as an Italian food authority, and educational signage throughout the store explains regional differences in olive oil, the aging process for Parmigiano-Reggiano, and which pasta shapes pair with which sauces. The layout encourages discovery. You walk in to buy olive oil and leave with olive oil, fresh mozzarella, a glass of wine, and a cookbook you didn't know existed.