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Backfill · 2022

#91 of 357

Virtual Fashion Shows

seq 13
ObserverCultural momentfashionadmiration
identity self expressiondigital experience
ActionExploreAchievementSomething Bigger4/9
ImageEditorial/lifestyle

Editorial/lifestyle: a laptop screen showing a digital fashion presentation with a model walking through an abstract CGI landscape wearing a flowing tailored coat.

336 words

Digital fashion shows during the pandemic forced designers to think about presentation in ways a physical runway never required. Some results have been more interesting than what they replaced. A few houses started releasing lookbooks as short films, with cinematography and sound design that treated clothes as part of a narrative rather than garments walking down a strip of flooring. The best ones understood that the screen is an intimate format. On a runway, you're sitting 30 feet away squinting at details. On a screen, you can zoom in on fabric texture and stitching, watch a hem move in slow motion. Digital also opened up access in a way the industry had always resisted. Anyone with an internet connection could watch a collection debut at the same time as the editors and buyers in the front row. Some brands leaned in by adding interactive elements or behind-the-scenes content about the making process. Traditionalists argue you lose the energy of a live show: the music, the lighting, the collective reaction of an audience. That's true. But what you gain is a democratic visibility the fashion industry specifically didn't want. The tension between those 2 impulses is actually the most interesting part of the whole experiment. Brands that did it well treated digital as its own medium with its own grammar, not just a livestream of an empty room. How much of what we consider the product in fashion is actually the staging? Does making the staging more accessible change the value of the clothes? Physical shows are back now. But the expectation that collections should also exist as watchable content hasn't gone away. That permanent shift matters more than anyone in the industry wants to admit.