Backfill · 2022
#36 of 357Selvedge Denim Patches
Press shot: a close-up of denim jeans with visible mending, showing a selvedge patch behind a knee tear stitched with white running stitches in a grid pattern.
Visible mending has turned ripped jeans from something you throw away into something you repair on purpose. Using selvedge denim patches on the inside of a tear is one of the more satisfying versions of the technique. A patch goes behind the damaged area and you sew through both layers with a running stitch, usually in a contrasting thread color so the repair is obvious. Result is a grid of small stitches over the torn section that looks intentional, like embroidery more than damage control. Selvedge edge of the patch, the tightly woven border from the original bolt, is sometimes left visible as a marker of the material's quality. Weight of the reinforcing fabric gives the knee or thigh area a different hand-feel than the surrounding denim. Japanese boro textiles use a similar approach and have been doing it for centuries, layering fabric on fabric until the garment becomes a record of its own repairs. Slowing down to spend an hour with a needle instead of 5 minutes ordering a replacement changes how you think about the thing you are wearing. I started doing this because a pair of jeans I really liked blew out at the knee. Buying the same pair again felt pointless when the new ones would just be stiff and unfaded. Now it's the repaired version I reach for first. Contrast between worn indigo and new patch fabric creates a visual texture that you can not get any other way. People who see the stitching ask about it, and the conversation that follows is always more interesting than any conversation about new clothes.