Backfill · 2021
#309 of 315Levi's 501 Original Fit Jeans
Press shot of Levi's 501 Original Fit jeans in rigid unwashed selvedge denim, laid flat showing the button fly, copper rivets, red tab, and the stiff dark indigo fabric.
Levi's has been making the 501 since 1873. The fact that the same basic pattern, straight leg, button fly, 5 pockets, copper rivets, has survived 150 years of fashion cycles tells you the proportions were right from the beginning. The 501 is not the most flattering jean on every body type and the button fly is slower than a zipper. The silhouette has a neutrality that makes it work with everything from work boots to loafers, and that versatility is why it has been adopted by every subculture from cowboys to punks to hip-hop. The shrink-to-fit version, which you buy stiff and oversized and then soak in a hot bath to mold to your body. Is the purest expression of the 501 concept because the final fit is literally shaped by your physique. I want a pair of the rigid selvedge version because the denim starts dark and uniform and then fades over months of wear into patterns that are unique to how you move. Your phone sits in your pocket, how you cross your legs, and the jeans become a record of your habits. Cotton at 12.5 oz per yard, the weight gives the fabric a structure that lighter denim lacks. When new they stand up on their own which sounds impractical but is actually satisfying because it means the material is substantial. At $68 for the standard version the cost-per-year over a pair's 5-10 year lifespan makes them one of the better values in a wardrobe. The 501 has been manufactured on every continent and the quality varies between factories. The denim enthusiasts who track factory codes and selvage colors have created a connoisseurship around what is ostensibly a mass-market product. Levi's did not invent jeans but they standardized them, and the 501 is the pattern that every other straight-leg jean references whether the brand acknowledges it or not. Copper rivets at stress points were Levi Strauss's patent innovation in the 1870s, a purely functional addition to prevent pocket tearing for miners and laborers. That