Backfill · 2021
#156 of 315Camp Collar Shirt Revival
Editorial: Three camp collar shirts hung on a wooden rack, showing different fabrics and patterns: a blue stripe cotton, an olive linen, and a printed rayon, with the flat notched collar detail visible on each.
Camp collar shirts, the ones with the flat notched collar that sits open without a tie. Have come back into fashion through a combination of vintage enthusiasm and the broader shift toward relaxed tailoring that the pandemic accelerated. Originating in 1950s Hawaiian shirts and Cuban guayaberas, the collar style now appears in current versions from brands like Corridor, Portuguese Flannel, and Gitman Vintage in fabrics ranging from lightweight cotton to heavy wool flannel. The appeal is that a camp collar shirt looks intentional without looking formal, occupying a space between a t-shirt and a dress shirt that most other garments can't reach. Construction details differ from a standard button-down in ways that affect how the shirt hangs and moves. The collar lies flat because it's cut in 1 piece with the front panel rather than being attached separately. The button placket often has a loop at the top instead of a buttonhole, reinforcing the shirt's casual heritage. Fit is typically boxy rather than slim. Works better for the silhouette because a tailored camp collar shirt looks like a uniform while a relaxed 1 looks like vacation. I own 2 camp collar shirts, 1 in a lightweight blue stripe and 1 in a heavier olive linen. They are the most versatile pieces in my closet because they work with shorts in summer and under a jacket in cooler weather. Portuguese Flannel's version costs about $90, which feels reasonable for a shirt I wear at least once a week for 8 months of the year. The fashion cycle that brought camp collars back will probably push them out again within a few years. The style has enough utility and enough historical depth to survive as a wardrobe staple for people who discovered it during this wave.